Cromarty Firth, MacKenzie Stronghold, Lallybroch and Beauly

Earlier in the day we had visited Culloden, Clava Cairns and a Clootie well.  It was a lucky thing we wanted to stay three nights in Inverness, as there was so much to see.  I still would have liked to do a tour to the Isle of Skye, but we just didn’t have time.  The next time I am visiting, I plan on doing Hugh Allison’s tour of the Isle of Skye.  The most scenic routes, I was told over and over were the single track roads, and if I’m driving, I can’t take photographs.  And since I already know how absolutely fantastic Hugh is, this seems the obvious choice.

On the way to Cromarty Firth and the Foulis Ferry, we stopped at a place Hugh knew where the salmon were jumping and we took a stroll through a lovely area.  There was a bridge suspended over the river where we were able to perch our cameras so we could get photos when the salmon attempted to jump upstream.  

Store HouseThe next stop on our tour was The Storehouse at Foulis Ferry, on the shore of Cromarty Firth in Monro Country.  I loved this little place.  Long ago the Lairds would bring their tenant’s rent in the form of grain or livestock here to store until it could be put on a ferry or boat to be taken to a large city where the goods would be sold or traded for other things.  The 18th Century Storehouse here was set up as a self-touring adventure with a movie at the end.  Hugh added his own bits, and answered the many questions we had about how this arrangement worked.

There was a lovely restaurant with a view of the water where we ate lunch, which was very tasty. Baked potatoes with just about anything on them, sandwiches, soup, salads and a plethora of desserts.  After we ate, we walked through the gift shop and then The Storehouse which was filled with scenes of a typical day in the 18 century.

We then headed for the MacKenzie Castle, but had a seal photo op at Loch Garve on the way.  This is the reason a driver is a good thing to have.  He did several passes so everybody in the car could get a shot, as it was on a busy road with no place to stop!

Hugh Allison told us that this is an actual MacKenzie stronghold.  He also said that according to the author of Outlander, it fits her vision of the Castle Leoch of Outlander.  It is occupied by the Earl of Cromartie, chief of the clan MacKenzie, and if you come on a day he is available, he will allow a tour of the inside.  Unfortunately, he was out of town when we visited, so I’ll have to go with my imagination.  I would not want to maintain the driveway!

The next place was found after the book was written in an effort to “show” what Lallybroch might have looked like. It is indeed, an 18th century dwelling, and serves as a Bed and Breakfast. The owners kindly allowed us to have afternoon tea here in the sitting room while examining weapons.

After tea, we headed to Beauly Priory.  Although the Priory is amazing in its own right, I could not stop thinking about the 800-year-old Elm tree that marks the gated entrance. Being the skeptic that I am, I asked how they knew it was 800 years old, and he replied that they had maps dating back 800 years that showed the tree.  If trees could talk, what a tale it would have to tell…

After we toured Beauly Priory, we stopped in at a local shop that sold wools and sgian dubh’s.  The sweaters were beautiful knits of colorful wool, as well as ties and hats, and mens vests.  After making our purchases, it was time to head back to Ardconnel House.  But not before one last photo-op of Heather.

Culloden Battlefield, Clava Cairns and Clootie Wells

Formal tours are a great thing. First and foremost, someone else is driving. If they are good, they will not only drive, but back-up, turn around and generally maneuver in places that you were certain they could not all for the sake of the perfect photo. We had all of that and more in Hugh Allison.

Hugh was doing an Outlander tour. For those of you who have read The Outlander series, you will know what this means. For those of you who have not, it simply means that we were able to see places relevant to the book, some real, some that just fit the author’s fictitious places. Hugh was a wealth of information, and a published author. He had a wonderful sense of humor, and I would be amiss if I did not say that if you ever needed a tour in the Highlands of Scotland, Hugh Allison would be your man.

I also should mention the others who were on the tour, if only because we crashed at the last minute. Michelle was a huge fan of the Outlander books, her husband and son, not so much. Mark and Josh hung in there with admirable patience, considering the subject matter. Mark was quick-witted and generally happy, and Josh was a model of politeness, gallantly taking the back seat without complaint.

We started at Clava Cairns,  There are three separate cairns here, two for holding the souls of the dead until they continue on their way in the afterlife, and one for cremating the bodies. They also served as a giant sundial and calendar for the people who lived 3500 years ago. If you visit during the December Solstice, you can see the sun stream through the opening at sunset.

There are also various standing stones, one of which is split.   For those of you who have read Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series, I did not hear the stones scream at me, which was something of a disappointment. Maybe I should come back on All Hallows Eve and try again.

There is a fourth rudimentary stone ring which gives the appearance of an attempt to create something like the other rings, though it doesn’t meet the mark. Scientists discovered  it was an attempt to create a ring like the others, 1000 years later by  studying peat samples below the surface of the earth. These peat samples indicate that there was a period of seven years where this part of the earth was covered in darkness, and nothing grew and many things died. The event that caused this was the eruption of a volcano that permanently cooled this region, as it had been a warm and temperate climate prior to the eruption. When the sun finally was able to show through the ash cloud, we had entered into the bronze age, where the inhabitants didn’t quite have the knack for creating the stone monoliths from a thousand years prior.  After tromping round Clava Cairns and discussing time travel theory, and then whether or not we could actually cope with being transported 200 years back (Hello!?, it’s fiction!) we headed to Culloden Moor.

Outside the visitors center, the wall has a brick that stands proud for each Highlander that fell.
Inside the visitors center, the visitor gets the perspective of the British on the left side of the exibit, and the Highlanders on the right, and follows the developments leading up to the fateful battle that occurred on April 16, 1746. At the end of the walk through there is a 360 degree theater where film plays with a reenactment of the battle with the Scottish Highlanders stretched out roughly halfway around and the British opposing, with the visitors standing in between to understand the perspective.  The battle itself lasted less than an hour, but within the first three minutes, 700 Highlanders lay dead on the cold, wet moore, while the English army lost only 50, with 250 wounded. The Duke of Cumberland, wanting to make sure such a rebellion never happened again, sent troops all through Scotland to burn the cottages and dwellings, frequently shooting Highlanders regardless of (and sometimes not even asking) their sympathies, and turning women and children out of their homes to starve. He was nicknamed The Butcher. All in all, a very sobering experience.  Once you exit the theater, there is an exhibit with weapons to handle that were commonly found during that historical time.
After we finished the exhibit, we headed outside to walk the battlefield.  The technical gadget used to walk to the battle field looked like a smart phone, but was a satellite receiver.  All over the field were places that triggered the device to play audio that explained the particular place you were standing in and what happened in the battle at that place.  Diagrams showed on the screen in explanation as well as picture of the key people in the battle and a brief description of their significance.
Hugh Allison knew quite a bit of the history and many stories from the tradition of Highland Storytelling through his work as a private tour guide and from his time working in the visitors center at Culloden.  One of these stories is about Leanach Cottage which was occupied by a family of five in 1841.  Through the years it was alternately abandoned and occupied until Bella MacDonald moved in and stayed until 1912  when she died at the age of 80.  The building is made of stone, but has dirt floors and a roof of heather.
The Well of the Dead is one of the most famous markers on the field among the clan grave stones.  It marks the place where Alexander MacGillivray fell in battle, and also one of the sites of heaviest casualties.
Here is where I also found good displays of the famous Scottish Heather, which had just started blooming in early August.

The Thistle has been the national emblem of Scotland since the reign of Alexander III in the 13th century, and it also grows wild on Culloden.
After the battlefield, we headed to Cromarty Firth but stopped at a Clootie well.  What is a Clootie well? A Clootie well is a place where ailing souls go to rid themselves of their infirmities.  Different theories abound. It must be done on the 1st of May; you must circle the well three times chanting a Celtic prayer, or possibly dip the article of clothing associated with the illness, ie; stocking from an ulcerative foot,  in the well before hanging it on the tree. No matter how many theories there are regarding the placement of the clothing, the one certain thing that everyone seems to agree on is one must never remove something that you didn’t hang, because if you do, you will take on the ailment of the individual who did put it up.
Tomorrow I will continue with Part II of the Outlander Tour, to include Cromarty and Beauly.